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How fitting, then, that St. Martin arguably contains more bars per capita than any other Caribbean island. Or maybe it just seems that way, given the myriad sunset booze cruises to toast the elusive green flash no, not a superhero but an atmospheric phenomenon caused by prismatic refraction of the sun's rays. This is a friendly, good-time place, where after-dark activities begin early -- usually a sundowner on one of the Caribbean's most beautiful beaches.
Nightlife choices range from barefoot beach bars to salvaged scows to glitzy discos and, of course, casinos -- all 14 of them located on the Dutch side of the island. In fact, the Dutch side at times resembles perpetual spring break, with rolling happy hours at sun-splashed beach bars.
Free entertainment abounds. Most restaurants notably at Simpson Bay and beach bars especially on Orient Bay host live bands at least once a week, not to mention joyous happy hours. Hotels sponsor beachside barbecues with string bands. Then there are the regular community jump-ups. Friday nights, the Philipsburg boardwalk along Front Street percolates with activity, as does Marigot's waterfront market Wednesdays and Sundays in season. Tuesdays from January to May, the "Mardi de Grand Case" aka Harmony Night explodes with color and sound: brass or steel drum bands, dancers, street performers, local crafts booths, and barbecue.
To find out what's on during your stay, get the Thursday edition of The Daily Herald, which runs an "Out and About" section and lists of upcoming events. Both sides of the island provide the endorphin rush of dancing to a great DJ's mix. The action usually starts at 10pm though the beachfront discos throw afternoon theme parties. For many people, the best hangs on the island are those barefoot beach shacks right on the beach, where you can sit under a palm tree or a shady awning, listening to music, sipping a drink, and dining on fresh grilled fish or ribs.
Some, like the Sunset Bar, have gone on to semi-fame or semi-notoriety , but others have remained blessedly low-tech and laidback. Here are a few I recommend. Beau Beaus's at Oyster Bay tel. The latter cooks up blistering barbecue and delivers a knockout punch with Raymond's Special, a blend of six rums; hear reggae on weekends.